Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Journeying through The Ramayana Day 9 @ Allahabad & Sringiberapuram


FOLLOWING THE SECOND JOURNEY – AYODHYA TO LANKA

ALLAHABAD

Day 8 on the way to Allahabad
The holiest of cities in India - Allahabad. I had heard so much about this Sangamam of three great rivers that I eagerly awaited the experience.  

Day 9 @ At The Triveni Sangam, Allahabad
The Triveni Sangam is one of the most hallowed. Its best to take a dip at the sangam at sunrise. There are many boats available, based on the number of people travelling, to reach the exact point in the middle of the river where the sangam takes place. At this point, the local authorities have built a wooden platform protected by 3 boats on the sides and ropes. 
Our boat ride itself was on the Ganges and we could see the smooth fast-flowing Yamuna, flowing from our right to merge her identity with the Ganges. Saraswati of course was unseen running as Antarvahini - as a current underneath. As we descended on to the wooden platform at the Sangam, the river water is only about shoulder deep. I could feel the fast moving  currents of all the 3 rivers as I bent low 3 times to bathe in the river. Its amazing to think that 3 of India's greatest rivers were right there touching our bodies & souls. Of all the sangams in Indian spiritual heritage this is by far the most important. We came back to the shore refreshed in body and soul.
Bharadwaj Ashram 
Bharadwaja Ashram, now in the Allahabad city itself, was the first ashram that Rama visited along with Sita and Lakshmana on his way into the forest. It was also the first ashram that he visited on his return to Ayodhya, after completing the 14 years of banishment.  

The Ashram itself is today in a busy market place. It is a beautiful red building with multiple shrines. The main shrine itself is that of Muni Bharadwaja. It is said that the Muni had more than 10,000 disciples.

SRINGIBERAPURAM
 Sringberapuram, currently near Allahabad, is a small town which was the capital of Guha, the chieftain of all boatsmen along the entire Ganges. This small settlement has great significance in the Ramayana for multiple reasons. It was the first stop that Rama made as he left for the forest. The place is hallowed also because  it was here that Rama made Guha his 5thbrother & where Guha experienced Bharatha's devotion to Rama. Guha's deep friendship for Rama, one of the most moving tales of Ramayana was enacted at Sringiberapuram. As we neared the temple door, it occurred to me that here was an  ordinary  mortal who had neither knowledge, nor bhakthi nor karma. All he had was an abiding desire to serve his Lord Rama. And for this he was rewarded with Rama’s affection. For Rama's yatra and our Rama Anu Yatra, I realised then, that this was one of the most important milestones in the Ramayana that taught all of us the essence of Saranagathi.

The Guha Temple
The temple itself is quite small. But there is an air of serenity about this place as it rests ledged on the banks of the fast moving Ganges. It has a small entrance. As you enter the small temple you can see an image etched on the rock face,  of Guha ferrying Rama Sita & Lakshmana in the boat across the Ganges.  The image itself in the temple captured the emotions of the moment beautifully – of  Guha's pain and responsibility in ferrying his precious treasure across the river fully aware that he would have to part from them soon.   

Ganges @ Sringiberapuram                                               
As we came out of the temple, we saw the Ganges flowing majestically  to our left. It seemed to stretch forever. With nature smiling on both banks, one cannot help feeling moved by this gigantic river.

Risyasringa-  Santa temple
Santa, wife of Sage Risyasringa, was Dasaratha's daughter given away in adoption to King Romapada, King of Anga. Such was the spiritual prowess of the sage that it is said that wherever he resided, that country would know no hunger or drought or misery. This great sage was also the one invited to conduct the Putrakameshti Yagna for King Dasaratha, the fruits of which were his 4 beautiful sons. 

This temple in honour of the Sage and his wife, is right across the Guha temple on a small hillock. There is a separate sannidhi for the sage and his wife. Other sannidhis include that of Panchamukha Anjaneya temple, a Bhavani temple, a Siva temple. More than the actual sannidhis, it is the actual aura of the place that settles into your soul.  The view from top of this small hill is beautiful as the Ganges stretches across both ends. At a height, with the Ganges flowing below for as far as the eye can see, there is a feeling of awe at seeing the great rishi who did the putrakameshti yagnam for Dasaratha because of which the Lord was born. The panchamukha anjaneyar was also a beautiful idol though small. In true north indian style, it was painted orange.

Rama Sayya

A short distance by bus, from Sringiberapuram,  we reached a mud track that lead to a beautiful temple called Rama Sayya. We had to walk 3 kms one way to reach this temple through fields and rough plains. This temple marks the place where Rama & Sita slept for a night. 

As you near the temple, a small flight of steps and a simple arch awaits us. As soon as reach the top we see an open courtyard with a canopy of 3 trees that covers a large platform. with  On this platform are 2 beds of kusa grass.  It is believed that these beds are the exact place where Rama & Sita slept that night at Sringiberapuram. One can just imagine how the divine couple slept out of sheer exhaustion under the tree and Lakshmana and Guha and his entire retinue walked around them, through the night protecting them.

Right across that close by is this temple showing Rama Sita Lakshmana – these were one of the most beautiful idols made of marble that I’ve ever seen. The eyes were so full of compassion and understanding of the inane problems & tribulations of the milling crowd that came to seek their blessings. Despite the noise levels and crowd, there was a tranquility and peace about the place that seeped into our souls.

With the beautiful images etched in our minds, we left Sringiberapuram. As I looked back at the temple, the significance of this place struck me - for both the Ramanyana & Rama Anu Yatra. 

To view photos of Allahabad & Sringiberapuram in Rama Anu Yatra click on:

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