Journeying through The Ramayana Day 16 & 17 @ Kishkinda (Hampi)

Kishkinda, the modern day Hampi, was the point where Rama broke ranks to show his magnanimity, stature and statesmanship in making friends with the monkey king Sugriva.  The action in the Ramayana that happened at Kishkinda increased manifold to a grand finish at Ayodhya. Our visit to all the important places in Kishkinda were done partly on the evening of our arrival and partly the next day

Bath at Tungabhadra: Hampi is close to the small town of Hospet which is situated on the banks of Tungabhadra- one of the mighty rivers of the South. We reached Hospet late night adn hence the first thing we did the next morning was to go for a bath in the Tungabhadra. However, at the time we went the river was in full flow and fast moving. The whole surroundings were green and lush with life. We were warned to bathe in groups only at the designated ghats. As we stepped into the cold waters, the power of the river was overwhelming. It was clear to me that nature was indeed all powerful.The waters swirled wildly around our bodies as we held on to each other to stay steady in neck deep waters! This power and energy was not felt even in the Ganges. It was an exhilirating experience. 

Anjanadri This is the mountain on the banks of the Tungabhadra, on which Hanuman was born. The mountain like most others here is sheer rock with some 1500 steps cut into the rock face that lead upto a small temple. Considering the age of most of the yatrikas, we couldn’t go up the hill. But even from the ground below the view was tremendous.

Chintamani  This is the name of one of the tall stone hills, on which Vali and Sugriva fought their battle and where Vali was killed by Rama’s arrow shot from the Rishyamukha mountain across the river.  We reached this hill in the early evening after sunset. In the dark night of the hills, we passed a small village or settlement to climb up this hill which is just sheer stone. At the top, one saw a mark that was made by Rama’s arrow and also marks of Vali’s fall and blood. The locals say that there also used to be 7 Sal trees here that Rama hit with a single arrow. It was amazing to think of the epic battle that was fought here to forge the friendship between Rama and the monkey king. It was also here that Rama adviced Vali on dharma. 

Matanga muni – Sabari ashram  Sabari was a sishya of Sage Matanga, who knew through his yogic powers that Rama would pass through here  and it would be necessary for someone from his ashram to be there to offer hospitality. Hence he asked his sishya Sabari, a very learned woman with great penance, to stay back and welcome the princes on his behalf. Sabari is said to have waited many years clearing the path to her ashram every single day and setting up a meal of the choicest berries every day, in the hope that Rama would come that day. When the princes finally arrived, Sabari, in her devotion to her Guru, did his bidding - she offered the princes a meal of berries carefully chosen by her and some much needed rest. After serving them, at Rama's command and by the grace of her Guru she left for the highest heavens. 

We visited this  ashram late night. Nevertheless, the visit itself was elevating - to think that such a great devotee waited at this place for years for her Lord with love and devotion. The ashram is not currently inhabited by anyone in particular though some people do come regularly to offer prayers here. It’s on the same side as the Chintamani mountain and is really just a cave, that has a narrow entrance. This leads further on to a small clearing where there is a sacrificial altar and Rama’s feet etched on the floor. The cave itself is supposed to be very dark and about 3 kms long. Most people don’t venture beyond the entrance of the cave.

Rishyamukha mountain

This is the mountain on which Sugriva hid from his brother Vali, along with his ministers. Its the mountain where he met Rama and Lakshmana first with the help of Hanuman. We saw this hill from the other bank of Tungabhadra.

Sugreeva gufa

This cave is where Sugriva lived for many years on the Rishyamukha mountain.It was the only safe haven he had from Vali. His abode is a long walk on various natural stone structures and is quite strenuous. However, when we reach the cave, we find that there is a beautiful Ranganatha swamy figure etched on the entrance rock of the cave. Inside are feet marks of Rama, the idols of Rama Lakshmana & Sita; strangely  Sita stands between the two brothers rather than on the side as always.

KondaraRama  temple

This is one of the ancient temples in the region which have a beautiful images of Rama Sita and Lakshmana. and a very sweet image of Hanuman standing outside.

Chakra Teertham

This is a very peculiar phenomenon in the waters of the Tungabhadra that happens only when it is overflowing and full. As the river swells and moves around, it makes a circumambulation, goes around and comes back on itself. If seen from an aerial view, it looks like the Lord’s Sudarshana Chakram. Nobody knows why this happens that too only when the water crosses the danger mark. It’s quite a sight!! We were lucky to witness this phenomenon.

Yoga Narsimha temple

There are many ancient temples with beautiful architecture and sculptures. Of these the Yoga Narasimha temple is painfully beautiful. The Lord in a sitting position, is about 50 feet tall. But with all the plundering that was done by the Mohameddan rulers, the idol itself has been badly mutilated. The Lord also is completely exposed to the elements with no roof or walls to house this idol.

Vittala temple

This temple is one of the most magnificent and probably the most ravaged too. Even the idol of the deity is missing. The locals say that it was taken away to Pandharpur to save it from the looters. The temple has a long row of pillars that lead up to it. This was supposed to have been a market place in those days where gold, precious stone etc were sold. 

Malyavantha Ranganatha Rama temple

This is again a very ancient temple atop a small hill that requires  a steep climb from its base. It has Ranganatha swamy as its main deity. There is also a beautiful large heavily decorated architectural marvel - an old mandapam which could probably take about 800 people quite comfortably apart from having a huge stage. The temple gopuram itself strangely comes through a rock!

To view photos of Kishkinda (Hampi) in Rama Anu Yatra click on:

https://picasaweb.google.com/devikavarad/RamaAnuYatraKishkindaHampi#